Our river ferry pulled into Bagan just after sunset, the sky and the water both brushed with pastel shades of purples and pinks, the water rippling as birds skimmed the surface; stupas on the cliffs stark black against the deepening sky.
The next morning, after a relaxed breakfast in the hotel garden (complete with my new favorite thing, mohinga) we met our tour guide, Koko, and headed off to start exploring the temples of Bagan.
Our first stop offered a view that allowed us to start getting an idea of the scope of the plains and their myriad of temples and stupas. To get to the view, we navigated zigzag passages and sandy staircases, all of crumbling brick and buddhas and hinting of former glory.
In the city of Nyaung U, we wandered the local market, a warren of covered walkways; tables covered in a cacophony of vegetables - greens, herbs, tomatoes, eggplants. Stacks of dried fish. Shelves of lacquerware buddhas and other tourist trinkets. Flats of eggs hustled through the narrow aisles by girls gritting their teeth and maneuvering deftly. Baskets full of betel leaves are swirled in a beautiful pattern, waiting to be filled with lime juice and red-and-white betel nuts. Scales, both digital and old-school: two baskets and lead weights.
IThe main attraction in the city is Shwezigon Paya, at the center of which is a glittering golden zedi surrounded by the usual daily buddhas, jangling red-and-gold ornaments, flowers, candles, offerings (including bright orange Cheez Curls and other fake-bright crispy snacks).
In the corner of the compound is a temporary building housing two squat nat statues, with bills tucked into their sashes, waistcoats and headbands, looking slightly mischievious. Koko fills us in that the woman standing nearby is a spirit medium, who can get in touch with the spirits.
At Htilomino Paya, we walk round the temple under the remains of some fabulous artwork - painted buddhas and intricate designs.
And on our way out, we meet this little guy, selling home-made postcards. Which I obviously had to buy.
After lunch we tour a lacquerware workshop, where we see all stages of the laborious, time-consuming process, from forming the shape with bamboo, to the thick black lacquer being applied and dried twelve to times over, to the lathes polishing, to the designs being etched and the colors being applied.
An evening boat cruise was a perfect way to end the day. The boat was rickety and the engine was loud, but we had it to ourselves and enjoyed an un-impeded view of the sun sliding down behind the hills on the far side of the river.
We spent the next few days exploring on borrowed bicycles and relaxing by the hotel pool. A sunrise adventure (chilly stone and tourist cameras at the ready), temples large and small (and one a little creepy), knowing that it's impossible to see it all.
The next morning, after a relaxed breakfast in the hotel garden (complete with my new favorite thing, mohinga) we met our tour guide, Koko, and headed off to start exploring the temples of Bagan.
Our first stop offered a view that allowed us to start getting an idea of the scope of the plains and their myriad of temples and stupas. To get to the view, we navigated zigzag passages and sandy staircases, all of crumbling brick and buddhas and hinting of former glory.
In the city of Nyaung U, we wandered the local market, a warren of covered walkways; tables covered in a cacophony of vegetables - greens, herbs, tomatoes, eggplants. Stacks of dried fish. Shelves of lacquerware buddhas and other tourist trinkets. Flats of eggs hustled through the narrow aisles by girls gritting their teeth and maneuvering deftly. Baskets full of betel leaves are swirled in a beautiful pattern, waiting to be filled with lime juice and red-and-white betel nuts. Scales, both digital and old-school: two baskets and lead weights.
IThe main attraction in the city is Shwezigon Paya, at the center of which is a glittering golden zedi surrounded by the usual daily buddhas, jangling red-and-gold ornaments, flowers, candles, offerings (including bright orange Cheez Curls and other fake-bright crispy snacks).
In the corner of the compound is a temporary building housing two squat nat statues, with bills tucked into their sashes, waistcoats and headbands, looking slightly mischievious. Koko fills us in that the woman standing nearby is a spirit medium, who can get in touch with the spirits.
After lunch we tour a lacquerware workshop, where we see all stages of the laborious, time-consuming process, from forming the shape with bamboo, to the thick black lacquer being applied and dried twelve to times over, to the lathes polishing, to the designs being etched and the colors being applied.
Our final temple of the day is the massive Ananda Pahto, it's concentric inner passages dotted with niches containing small golden Buddhas strung with dusty cobwebs.
An evening boat cruise was a perfect way to end the day. The boat was rickety and the engine was loud, but we had it to ourselves and enjoyed an un-impeded view of the sun sliding down behind the hills on the far side of the river.
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