Sunday, April 6, 2014

China, Part1

Six women converge in a Beijing hotel. Friends and friends-of-friends. Reunions and first meetings.

Coffee and breakfast before hopping in cabs to PanJiaYuan market, where flea market wares set out on the ground flanked the permanent shops and rows of vendors. Antiques, carvings and old money, Chairman Mao alarm clocks, buddhas, wooden doors, teapots, shiny brass, beads, vases, name stamps, musical instruments, paintings...










A late afternoon wander though a hutong revamped with cafes and shops, before catching the overnight train to Xian (in first-class sleeper cars).





I woke in the morning to a bleak landscape, rocky ravines and dark twisty trees, broken with occasional fluffy white cherry blossoms. Sipping train coffee in paper cups as we roll into Xian.

Xian was a major stop on the Silk Route, and we wasted no time before setting off to explore it's historical sites with Eric, our excellent tour guide.

Exploring the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, before setting off around the old city wall on rented bicycles.






 Into the Muslim quarter. A delicious dumpling lunch, after watching the dumplings being made before our very eyes by three quick-fingered ladies.

A mosque tucked away on the back streets, completely different from any mosque I'd ever seen; a lovely oasis of silence in the city.



Night-time wander back through the Muslim quarter. The main street is bustling, lights twinkle in the trees. Steam rises from noodles and dumplings, street carts hawk meat on sticks and dessert concoctions. Fresh bread, nuts and dried fruit piled in brightly-lit storefronts.

Tuesday: Terracotta Warriors.
So much time and energy, so many lives, for something that was never meant to be seen by living eyes.
The farmer who first made the discovery sometimes sits in the gift shop, signing his name. (And charging extra for photos.)
In the uncovered but un-excavated sections, the chaos is incredible, and there's no question why, after 40 years, only some of the soldiers have been pieced back together and reformed into ranks.
The detail is remarkable, the differences between the faces are striking.












And here are the lovely ladies:

Full set of photos here, if you're so inclined. 

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